Coach JewelryEl-Aseel
restaurant - which translates as Original or Pure in Arabic -- is
tucked away on the third floor of a run-down building in the Egyptian
border-town of Rafah, minutes from Gaza.
Moustafa, 22, wearing
an Adidas jumpsuit, stands in the smoldering kitchen preparing chicken.
He explains: "We are a border city, divided by two sides, so in a way
we're both Palestinian and Egyptian. If you go up on the roof, you'll
see Gaza. It's very close, but very far."
I spent four days in
Rafah and nearby cities to see how places far from the revolutionary
Tahrir Square are grappling with life in Egypt now that former
President Hosni Mubarak is gone.
Rafah -- an isolated town right
on the border with Gaza -- now finds itself in the eye of the change
sweeping the region, socially and economically if not geographically.
Discount Coach HandbagsEgypt to open Gaza border crossing at Rafah
As
old autocracies crumble, how will lives change on the streets and how
will new rulers handle one of the biggest questions in the Middle East
-- the Israeli-Palestinian conflict?
Rafah is one of only two
official entry and exit points -- the other is in Israel -- for human
traffic into Hamas-ruled Gaza, but since a 2007 blockade supported by
Mubarak, the impoverished town has thrived on tunnel-onomics -- an
extensive underground system of smuggling goods into Gaza.
With
talk of Egyptian plans to open the border with Gaza permanently, that
trade is now compromised, leaving smugglers with mixed feelings of hope
for Palestinians, but anxiety over losing money.
cheap hermes birkinGaza,
home to an estimated 1.5 million people, has been under an Israeli
blockade since June 2007, when Hamas -- which sweeped Palestinian
parliamentary elections in 2006 but are also deemed a terrorist
organization by Israel, the United States, and the European Union --
militarily forced supporters of the rival Fatah group from the strip.
Rafah's
closed border crossing is a strikingly tangible symbol of former
Mubarak's Israel-allied regime, but after revolutionary protests
toppled him, recent events have led some to forecast a possible sea
change in Egypt's foreign policy.
Earlier this month, Egypt
successfully brokered a reconciliation deal between the Islamist group
Hamas and Fatah, who are considered more mainstream, or moderate, by
the West.
cheap nike shoes storeAnd
in April, the Egyptian government temporarily reopened the Rafah
terminal, with foreign minister Nabil al-Araby saying the decision to
seal it off was "shameful."
He said then the opening would soon
be permanent. Alla Iraqi, an Egyptian Armed Forces spokesman, told CNN
on Wednesday the border will open permanently on May 28.
Two
weeks ago, the Arab world commemorated Nakba, what Arabs call "the
catastrophe" when thousands of Palestinians were dispelled from their
lands or fled as a result of the creation of Israel in 1948.
Coach ScarvesIn
Al-Arish, a town near Rafah which is also home to many Palestinians,
hundreds rallied, chanting: "To Jerusalem we go, millions and martyrs."
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